Sleeping on Ice: Our Night at Québec’s Hôtel de Glace

There are trips you remember for the places you saw, and then there are trips you remember because you felt them—physically, viscerally, unmistakably. Spending a night at Québec’s Hôtel de Glace firmly belongs in the second category.

Getting there was a bit of a journey in itself. We flew from Denver to Toronto, then connected onward to Québec City, landing with that familiar combination of travel-day fatigue and quiet excitement that comes from knowing something unusual is waiting on the other end. From the airport, we grabbed a taxi straight to the Valcartier Hotel, which serves as the warm, sensible counterpart to the Ice Hotel experience.

By the time we arrived, it was very much a “check in, eat something, and collapse” kind of evening. We had dinner, took advantage of central heating like the spoiled creatures we are, and got some rest—because the next day was going to be about exploration, and the night after that would be anything but ordinary.

Wandering Québec City

The following day was devoted almost entirely to Québec City itself—and honestly, that’s something we’d recommend to anyone considering the Ice Hotel. Yes, Hôtel de Glace is the headline act, but Québec City is the kind of supporting character that quietly steals scenes.

We spent the day wandering cobblestone streets that feel more European than North American, ducking into cafés to warm up, popping into small shops, and taking far too many photos of stone buildings that looked like they’d been lifted straight from a French storybook. We lingered along the fortified walls, admired the architecture, and let ourselves get pleasantly lost more than once—which, in a city like this, feels like the right approach.

It’s charming in a way that sneaks up on you. Historic, yes—but also alive. Not a museum. By the time we headed back to Valcartier that evening, we already felt like Québec City alone would’ve justified the trip.

Packing… Lightly

The next night was Ice Hotel night, and the packing process was refreshingly simple. We left most of our belongings at the Valcartier Hotel, taking only what we absolutely needed: swimsuits (for the hot tubs), iPhones, and the clothes we were wearing. That’s it.

There are good reasons for this minimalist approach—security is intentionally light at the Ice Hotel, and rooms don’t have doors in the traditional sense. Our room had a curtain. You don’t bring valuables. You bring curiosity and maybe a bit of bravado.

We transferred over just as dusk settled in, and stepping into Hôtel de Glace for the first time felt like entering another world. Everything—walls, furniture, even the bar—was sculpted from ice. The lighting was soft and otherworldly, casting blues and purples through carved corridors that felt both surreal and strangely cozy.

Colder Than Expected (By a Lot)

Let’s get one thing out of the way: it was colder than we expected.

We had good gloves. A solid hat. A warm coat. What we underestimated—spectacularly—was our lower half. Jeans, it turns out, are not ice-hotel-approved gear. If we did it again (and we would), snow pants and more layers would be non-negotiable.

That said, discomfort is part of the deal—and part of the story.

Ice Glasses and Fireplaces (Yes, Really)

One of the things we were most excited about was the bar—and specifically, the hand-carved cocktail glasses made entirely from blocks of ice. There’s something deeply satisfying about sipping a drink from a glass that will never let it get warm. Not that temperature control is a challenge when the ambient environment is already well below freezing.

Our package included a bottle of sweet Canadian sparkling wine, which we drank while huddled around a fireplace in the bar. And yes, that raises an obvious question: how do you put a fireplace inside an ice hotel without turning the whole thing into a slushy puddle?

The answer is engineering, airflow, and a lot of experience. The heat is controlled, the fire contained, and the effect is more psychological warmth than actual temperature change—but when you’re surrounded by ice, even the illusion of warmth counts.

To keep energy (and core temperatures) up, there was music—sometimes a DJ, sometimes live performers—turning the bar into a surprisingly lively social hub. There’s something bonding about dancing a little, laughing a lot, and drinking ice-cold cocktails from ice glasses while your breath hangs visibly in the air.

Slides, Chapels, and Cold-Weather Logic

Yes, we took the ice slide. Obviously.

We also visited the chapel—not because we were planning a wedding or seeking spiritual enlightenment, but because you have to see it. It’s beautiful, intricate, and wildly photogenic. Even if you’re not getting married, it’s worth a stop just to appreciate how “cool” (and we do mean that literally) a wedding here would be.

Before bed, staff strongly recommend spending time in the hot tubs and sauna, and they’re absolutely right. Getting your body temperature up beforehand makes the night not just tolerable, but actually manageable.

Sleeping on Ice (Literally)

Each room is outfitted with a thick mattress, sleeping bags rated for extreme cold, and—interestingly—two regular stick candles. You’re instructed to keep them lit all night. Not for heat in the traditional sense, but because even small amounts of radiant warmth help stabilize the microclimate around you. Plus, the flickering light adds a surprising sense of calm.

Following the advice to warm up beforehand, we climbed into bed feeling optimistic.

Reality set in quickly.

We’ll be honest: this is not a place where you get the best sleep of your life. Even if the cold doesn’t bother you much, the firm sleeping surface might. I woke up about once every hour, and each time I did, I was noticeably colder than before. By around 6 a.m., we were both very ready to be done with the experiment.

There had been some… ambitions leading into the night. Let’s just say a certain icy variation of the “mile-high club” had crossed our minds. But by the time it was lights out, sleep was the only thing on the agenda. That’s a checkbox for a future stay, perhaps.

Also worth noting: there are no bathrooms in the Ice Hotel. If nature calls, you have no choice but to bundle up and walk back to the nearby services building—a structure with lockers, bathrooms, and showers. Erin had the unfortunate experience of needing to do exactly that in the middle of the night. Not ideal. Memorable? Absolutely.

As morning came, we passed a few guests who had clearly decided, at some point overnight, that they were done and had retreated to the warmth of that building’s lobby. No judgment. Zero.

Warmth, Brunch, and Perspective

After showering and warming up back at the main hotel, we headed into Québec City once more—this time in search of brunch. We found a local favorite, which we knew was truly local when the waitress greeted us with a cheerful “bonjour,” and my attempt to mirror her pronunciation earned me a polite smile and, “Oh, Americans.”

So much for my French accent. Apparently, my Spanish one is more convincing.

Sitting there over coffee and food, fully thawed and laughing about the night before, it became clear: Hôtel de Glace is the bragging right, but Québec City is the soul of the trip. The Ice Hotel is unforgettable, but the city gives it context—history, beauty, and a sense of place that makes the whole experience richer.

Final Thoughts

We stayed in one of the more basic rooms, but after realizing just how cold the experience can be, the appeal of higher-end suites—with fireplaces and even private saunas—became very real, very fast.

Would we do it again? Yes. Better prepared. More layers. Snow pants. And maybe a premium suite.

Hôtel de Glace isn’t about luxury in the traditional sense. It’s about novelty, resilience, and stories you’ll tell forever. And paired with time in Québec City, it becomes something more than just a night on ice—it becomes a memory that sticks, long after you’ve warmed back up.

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